Summit NJ Tires and Auto | Peotters Tire and Auto

For the majority of drivers, going to an auto body shop in Summit NJ is a mysterious experience, a scary encounter with the unknown.

Once you hand over your key, you instantly feel uneasy; will your car be returned as good as new, or will the repair specialists do a shoddy job?

How will you know? How will you be able to figure out if you hard-earned money is just being tossed down the drain?

Auto Repair Quote

The best way to know if you are receiving excellent service and professional care is to find a reputable Summit NJ Auto Body shop and then build a relationship with that shop.

However, most people who take their vehicles in to the Auto Body Shop are doing so for the first time. So, how do you know whether or not you can trust an auto body shop?

First of all, it is important to know that most auto body shops are reputable businesses. The majority of Summit Auto Body owners are just struggling to make a living like most small business owners – they want to do a great job on your car so you will return or refer others to their shop.

The Auto Repair Shop

However, there are a few bad apples that spoil the whole bunch, and you need to be diligent when selecting a shop.

The first thing to do is get a referral or locate a shop online using reviews and testimonials.

One of the most puzzling things about shopping for relatively expensive services (more than $500) like home remodeling, cosmetic surgery, and auto body repair is the wide range of price quotes you receive for essentially the same service. When I ran an auto body shop, we would see quotes from big name shops of $2000 for a front bumper and grille replacement. Sometimes, we could do the job for $1000 and still make a fair profit.

So, was the big name shop's work better? Frankly, yes. Their painter could get a closer color match. Their body man could line up the bumper absolutely perfect...to within a millimeter of factory spec. But...was their work twice as good? Only a body man or painter could spot the difference. From a certain angle, in a certain light, he could see the slightest mismatch in paint color. And with a fine-grade ruler. He could check the gap between bumper and fender and find the slightest differences.

But could a customer perceive the difference between a $2000 and $1000 bumper job? No chance. If I could quantify the difference, it might be (an undetectable) 5%.

I'm not advocating that you choose the lowest bid every time (there are some bad shops out there), but as a former shop owner, I can tell you with confidence that it's seldom worthwhile to choose the highest bid.

You're going to want to choose the most affordable bid from a shop with a good reputation.

Here's how to find that "just right" shop:

1. Get at least 4 bids.
2. Toss the high bid.
3. Do some research on the remaining 3 bids.
4. Check online reviews: Google, Yahoo, Yelp, etc.
5. Check with the Better Business Bureau.
6. Inspect the shop...is it clean and orderly?
7. What about the customer service? Do they answer the phone? Are they polite? Do they answer your questions? Does the manager/estimator create a good, knowledgeable impression?
8. Do they guarantee their work? You will want at least a 3 year guarantee from defects like peeling and discoloration.
9. Usually, the shop will have completed cars waiting for pick up. Inspect the work. Would you pay for that work?

After you've done your investigating, circle the shops you felt comfortable with trusting your car. Trust your gut instinct! Then choose the one with the lowest bid. You'll get a repair that you will be very happy with yet spend hundreds if not thousands less.

Create a list and call each shop to see how well you are treated on the phone.

Select three or four shops that sound good and are in close proximity to your location, and you are ready to take your vehicle in for an estimate.

You should get at least three estimates from three different shops.

The estimate may vary because Auto Body Shops may use different estimating software, but they should all be in the same ballpark. If an estimate differs by a great deal, you should ask why.

The body shop expert should be able to explain all prices on the estimate, including all price quotes and labor charges.

When you get the estimate, you should also be evaluating the Auto Body customer service:

How quickly were you acknowledged?

How efficiently were you helped?

Were all members of the staff polite and friendly?

Did the staff seem knowledgeable?

Be observant during the estimate and you will have a good idea of how you will be treated during the entire repair process.

If the customer service seems lacking, move on to the next place even if the estimate seems reasonable.

If you decide to leave your car, and the shop contacts you later to tell you about additional charges, this may be a sign that it is not a reputable and honest repair facility.

Car Repair And Maintenance

Though additional charges can happen occasionally, it is not a common practice for a reputable shop.

If you do your homework, have some patience, and get a few estimate, the odds are good that you will find a reputable auto body shop.

Once you have found one, it helps to direct all your business to them, and refer them to others.

If you do this, you will have established a good relationship, and you will no longer need to worry about finding an honest auto body shop.

The Results Are In – Who Do You Think is the Best Summit NJ Auto Body in the Area?

Body Shop Near Home

(upbeat music) - Hey, this is Donnie Smith.

Have you ever overground metal, making it too weak and too thin? Well it's not that hard to do with these thinner metals.

What about when working with body filler? Have you ever gotten it in cracks, gaps, other placesthat you don't want it? Takes quite a bit of time to get that out of there and clean it up.

So if you'd like to learn some tricks, how to prevent over-thinning your metal when working with thin metal, and how to keep fromgetting all the body filler in the places you don'twant it in the first place, then you're in luck, because that's what we'regonna show you in this video.

Alright, let's just goahead and get started.

What we're gonna do to eliminate grinding a lot of the metal off,is to use a DA Sander, and we can use 36 grit, or 80.

I'm using 80 here.

That usually works well.

May take just a little bit longer to remove the paint coatings, but you're not gonna chancegrinding too much metal off.

This does not take the amountof metal that grinding does.

Now with thinner metals,I would recommend this.

Now if you're working on older vehicles, grinding may be a little quicker, and that may still work fine.

Okay, now for the tip of how to eliminate getting body filler in places you don't want it, and that's simply to mask it off.

On the edge, I don't want the body filler wrapping around the edgewhere I have to clean it up, so I'm gonna mask that off.

Any gaps, for instance here, there's a, where the molding goes, I don't want body filler to wrap in there where I'm gonna have to sand it out, so I'm gonna use the bodylines that's on the car, and use that as a dividing line to make nice, sharp lines at, so that the body fillerdoes not get in these areas.

(upbeat music) Okay, now I'm mixing thebody filler up in the tube.

I'm gonna let the air out of the cap, so that it'll mix well.

And once I remove some of the air, I'll put the cap back on, and now I'm just gonnamix it inside the tube, because this hardener reallydoes separate a lot in there.

If you don't do this, you'll have liquid-ysubstance that comes out, and you don't want that, so be sure that you mixit up well in the tube before you use it.

Now I've already got somebody filler out here, and I used a paint stick toput some on this mixing board.

And I'm gonna get this hardener, I'm gonna apply a stripfrom edge of the body filler to the other, and that usually is a pretty good mixing ratio.

And notice I'm using a spreader to mix it.

I'm not using a paint stick to stir it, because that could put air bubbles in it.

If you get air bubblesin your body filler, that's gonna create pinholes, whenever you go to sanding body filler.

So it's always best towork the air bubbles out.

Just spread it out on your filler until it's nice and uniform.

You don't want there tobe any hardener streaks.

You wanna mix it until it's one color.

(upbeat music) Okay, now I have the filler mixed good.

It's nice, uniform, one color.

We don't have any hardener streaks in it, so we know that it's mixed well.

I'm gonna apply the body filler.

Now to do this, I'm gonnaapply a tight coat first, and what that is, iswhere I take a thin coat of body filler, and push really hard down on the spreader, so thatI push it into the metal.

That helps it adhere better to the metal, so that you don't have any problems with adhesion at a later point.

Now once I get the tight coat on, I come back with a fill coat, and that's where I'm gonnaput a little bit less pressure on the spreader, which allows it to fill the damaged area in.

(upbeat music) Okay I have the fill coat applied.

Now here's a tip for you to eliminate a lot of the sanding, and that is to work on your edges, because if you have real hard edges, it's gonna take more sanding.

So what I'm doing here, is I'm using the spreader, and on the edges I'm kind of feathering that body filler out, so that edge is a real thin layer, and you don't have that big, hard edge to try to sand out.

Okay, now let this setup for just a little bit, and you don't want to do it immediately after you apply the body filler.

You wanna let the filler set, but you don't want it to be dry either.

But as it's kind of in its green state, go ahead and pull the tape off.

This will leave you nice clean edges.

And also before it fully cures, you can block sand lightly, you don't wanna sand too hard, just to help level someof the highs and lows.

Okay, now I allow it to dry, and started block sanding it.

Now I'm starting out with 36 grit, because that's gonna levelthe filler really fast, but notice that I'mstaying within the filler.

My block is not slidingout onto the paint, because I don't want those deep scratches getting onto the paint surface.

I'm just wanting to level the filler.

(upbeat music) Also notice that I'm sandingin different directions.

I'm not just going at oneangle the entire time.

So I change it up.

And what sanding indifferent directions does, is it's gonna help youget a more level surface.

So always sand in different directions.

(upbeat music) (sanding) (upbeat music) Once you have it level, switch to 80 grit.

That's what I'm doing here.

First, I'm gonna apply some guide coat, and this just to helpidentify highs and lows, and you'll know whenever you get rid of the 36 grit scratches.

Makes it easier to see this way.

Now also notice I am sandingout on the paint a little bit.

I'm not going too far, but you do wanna sand out further than you did with your 36 grit.

You wanna make sure all 36 grit scratches are removed during this step.

(upbeat music) Okay I finished blocking, and I'm feeling for high areas.

And usually if you seemetal spot areas like this, that's gonna indicate that it is high.

And that happens sometimes, and if it does, what you need to do is get your pick hammer, and lightly tap down on those metal areas.

And what this is gonna do, is it's gonna lower that metal.

(upbeat music) And here's another tip for you.

If you're having problemsfilling the bodywork, and determining highs and lows with your hand, with your bare hand, use something like this, a wipe all, or a towel or somethingto put between the panel and your hand.

And this may help you be able to feel the highs andthe lows much better.

Now I'm gonna use the tape, because I'm gonna be applying some putty, so I'm gonna do the same thingI did with the body filler, the edges, and that indention where the body side molding goes.

I'm gonna tape all that off, to keep all the filler out of that.

Now when using putty, it lays out a littlethinner than body filler, so I usually just go halfway, rather than from one edgeof the filler to the other.

So I'm gonna do about halfthe amount of hardener.

(upbeat music) But everything else is basically the same.

Mix it until it's one uniform color.

Don't want any streaks in there.

And the good thing aboutputty is it's thinner, and it's easier to get a nice skim coat, but you do wanna do the tight coat, followed by a fill coat.

And another thing about a putty, is you can go over the entire repair area, from paint edge to paint edge, and that helps any imperfections you had in your sanding flaws, or sanding scratches,or anything like that, it's gonna fill in.

(upbeat music) And after allowing it tosetup for a few minutes, now I'm gonna peel the tape.

(upbeat music) Now when sanding finish putty, I'm not gonna start out with 36 grit.

I'm gonna start out withthe 80 to level it out.

And also I wanna let it fully dry.

I really don't wanna try to sand putty in its green state, so I'llallow it to dry all the way.

Then I'm gonna get 80 on a block, and I'm gonna sand it.

And I'm gonna cross sand it.

Make sure it's good and level.

(upbeat music) Once I have it leveled with 80, I'm gonna use the guide coat, and then I'm gonna comeback with 150 to 180.

I'm using 150 here I believe, but anywhere between 180and 150 will work fine for smoothing out your 80 grit scratches.

And this guide coat, it will help you identify any lows that you may have if there are any, or let you know whenever you got all the 80 grit scratches sanded out.

(upbeat music) And one last thing you wanna do, before you send it offto start priming it, you wanna make sure it fits.

Make sure everything aligns.

Make sure that your body work is right.

So you're gonna have toput it up to the car, and make sure everything works.

(upbeat music) Always, thanks for watching this video.

Be sure and share it with your friends.

Give us a thumbs up, a like, and be sure to subscribe to our channel.

Also be sure to go to CollisionBlast.

Com.

And there we have hours of free autobody and painttraining videos like this one, and a lot of other resources for you.

Thanks again for watching.

Have a safe and productive week, and we'll see you in the next video.

(upbeat music).

Auto Glass and Body Shops

Auto Repair Financing

(upbeat music) - Hey, this is Donnie Smith.

Have you ever overground metal, making it too weak and too thin? Well it's not that hard to do with these thinner metals.

What about when working with body filler? Have you ever gotten it in cracks, gaps, other placesthat you don't want it? Takes quite a bit of time to get that out of there and clean it up.

So if you'd like to learn some tricks, how to prevent over-thinning your metal when working with thin metal, and how to keep fromgetting all the body filler in the places you don'twant it in the first place, then you're in luck, because that's what we'regonna show you in this video.

Alright, let's just goahead and get started.

What we're gonna do to eliminate grinding a lot of the metal off,is to use a DA Sander, and we can use 36 grit, or 80.

I'm using 80 here.

That usually works well.

May take just a little bit longer to remove the paint coatings, but you're not gonna chancegrinding too much metal off.

This does not take the amountof metal that grinding does.

Now with thinner metals,I would recommend this.

Now if you're working on older vehicles, grinding may be a little quicker, and that may still work fine.

Okay, now for the tip of how to eliminate getting body filler in places you don't want it, and that's simply to mask it off.

On the edge, I don't want the body filler wrapping around the edgewhere I have to clean it up, so I'm gonna mask that off.

Any gaps, for instance here, there's a, where the molding goes, I don't want body filler to wrap in there where I'm gonna have to sand it out, so I'm gonna use the bodylines that's on the car, and use that as a dividing line to make nice, sharp lines at, so that the body fillerdoes not get in these areas.

(upbeat music) Okay, now I'm mixing thebody filler up in the tube.

I'm gonna let the air out of the cap, so that it'll mix well.

And once I remove some of the air, I'll put the cap back on, and now I'm just gonnamix it inside the tube, because this hardener reallydoes separate a lot in there.

If you don't do this, you'll have liquid-ysubstance that comes out, and you don't want that, so be sure that you mixit up well in the tube before you use it.

Now I've already got somebody filler out here, and I used a paint stick toput some on this mixing board.

And I'm gonna get this hardener, I'm gonna apply a stripfrom edge of the body filler to the other, and that usually is a pretty good mixing ratio.

And notice I'm using a spreader to mix it.

I'm not using a paint stick to stir it, because that could put air bubbles in it.

If you get air bubblesin your body filler, that's gonna create pinholes, whenever you go to sanding body filler.

So it's always best towork the air bubbles out.

Just spread it out on your filler until it's nice and uniform.

You don't want there tobe any hardener streaks.

You wanna mix it until it's one color.

(upbeat music) Okay, now I have the filler mixed good.

It's nice, uniform, one color.

We don't have any hardener streaks in it, so we know that it's mixed well.

I'm gonna apply the body filler.

Now to do this, I'm gonnaapply a tight coat first, and what that is, iswhere I take a thin coat of body filler, and push really hard down on the spreader, so thatI push it into the metal.

That helps it adhere better to the metal, so that you don't have any problems with adhesion at a later point.

Now once I get the tight coat on, I come back with a fill coat, and that's where I'm gonnaput a little bit less pressure on the spreader, which allows it to fill the damaged area in.

(upbeat music) Okay I have the fill coat applied.

Now here's a tip for you to eliminate a lot of the sanding, and that is to work on your edges, because if you have real hard edges, it's gonna take more sanding.

So what I'm doing here, is I'm using the spreader, and on the edges I'm kind of feathering that body filler out, so that edge is a real thin layer, and you don't have that big, hard edge to try to sand out.

Okay, now let this setup for just a little bit, and you don't want to do it immediately after you apply the body filler.

You wanna let the filler set, but you don't want it to be dry either.

But as it's kind of in its green state, go ahead and pull the tape off.

This will leave you nice clean edges.

And also before it fully cures, you can block sand lightly, you don't wanna sand too hard, just to help level someof the highs and lows.

Okay, now I allow it to dry, and started block sanding it.

Now I'm starting out with 36 grit, because that's gonna levelthe filler really fast, but notice that I'mstaying within the filler.

My block is not slidingout onto the paint, because I don't want those deep scratches getting onto the paint surface.

I'm just wanting to level the filler.

(upbeat music) Also notice that I'm sandingin different directions.

I'm not just going at oneangle the entire time.

So I change it up.

And what sanding indifferent directions does, is it's gonna help youget a more level surface.

So always sand in different directions.

(upbeat music) (sanding) (upbeat music) Once you have it level, switch to 80 grit.

That's what I'm doing here.

First, I'm gonna apply some guide coat, and this just to helpidentify highs and lows, and you'll know whenever you get rid of the 36 grit scratches.

Makes it easier to see this way.

Now also notice I am sandingout on the paint a little bit.

I'm not going too far, but you do wanna sand out further than you did with your 36 grit.

You wanna make sure all 36 grit scratches are removed during this step.

(upbeat music) Okay I finished blocking, and I'm feeling for high areas.

And usually if you seemetal spot areas like this, that's gonna indicate that it is high.

And that happens sometimes, and if it does, what you need to do is get your pick hammer, and lightly tap down on those metal areas.

And what this is gonna do, is it's gonna lower that metal.

(upbeat music) And here's another tip for you.

If you're having problemsfilling the bodywork, and determining highs and lows with your hand, with your bare hand, use something like this, a wipe all, or a towel or somethingto put between the panel and your hand.

And this may help you be able to feel the highs andthe lows much better.

Now I'm gonna use the tape, because I'm gonna be applying some putty, so I'm gonna do the same thingI did with the body filler, the edges, and that indention where the body side molding goes.

I'm gonna tape all that off, to keep all the filler out of that.

Now when using putty, it lays out a littlethinner than body filler, so I usually just go halfway, rather than from one edgeof the filler to the other.

So I'm gonna do about halfthe amount of hardener.

(upbeat music) But everything else is basically the same.

Mix it until it's one uniform color.

Don't want any streaks in there.

And the good thing aboutputty is it's thinner, and it's easier to get a nice skim coat, but you do wanna do the tight coat, followed by a fill coat.

And another thing about a putty, is you can go over the entire repair area, from paint edge to paint edge, and that helps any imperfections you had in your sanding flaws, or sanding scratches,or anything like that, it's gonna fill in.

(upbeat music) And after allowing it tosetup for a few minutes, now I'm gonna peel the tape.

(upbeat music) Now when sanding finish putty, I'm not gonna start out with 36 grit.

I'm gonna start out withthe 80 to level it out.

And also I wanna let it fully dry.

I really don't wanna try to sand putty in its green state, so I'llallow it to dry all the way.

Then I'm gonna get 80 on a block, and I'm gonna sand it.

And I'm gonna cross sand it.

Make sure it's good and level.

(upbeat music) Once I have it leveled with 80, I'm gonna use the guide coat, and then I'm gonna comeback with 150 to 180.

I'm using 150 here I believe, but anywhere between 180and 150 will work fine for smoothing out your 80 grit scratches.

And this guide coat, it will help you identify any lows that you may have if there are any, or let you know whenever you got all the 80 grit scratches sanded out.

(upbeat music) And one last thing you wanna do, before you send it offto start priming it, you wanna make sure it fits.

Make sure everything aligns.

Make sure that your body work is right.

So you're gonna have toput it up to the car, and make sure everything works.

(upbeat music) Always, thanks for watching this video.

Be sure and share it with your friends.

Give us a thumbs up, a like, and be sure to subscribe to our channel.

Also be sure to go to CollisionBlast.

Com.

And there we have hours of free autobody and painttraining videos like this one, and a lot of other resources for you.

Thanks again for watching.

Have a safe and productive week, and we'll see you in the next video.

(upbeat music).

Auto Repair Centre

New Jersey Auto Body Shop | Peotters Tire and Auto