For the majority of drivers, going to an auto body shop in Summit NJ is a mysterious experience, a scary encounter with the unknown.
Once you hand over your key, you instantly feel uneasy; will your car be returned as good as new, or will the repair specialists do a shoddy job?
How will you know? How will you be able to figure out if you hard-earned money is just being tossed down the drain?
The best way to know if you are receiving excellent service and professional care is to find a reputable Summit NJ Auto Body shop and then build a relationship with that shop.
However, most people who take their vehicles in to the Auto Body Shop are doing so for the first time. So, how do you know whether or not you can trust an auto body shop?
First of all, it is important to know that most auto body shops are reputable businesses. The majority of Summit Auto Body owners are just struggling to make a living like most small business owners – they want to do a great job on your car so you will return or refer others to their shop.
However, there are a few bad apples that spoil the whole bunch, and you need to be diligent when selecting a shop.
The first thing to do is get a referral or locate a shop online using reviews and testimonials.
- Hey Youtubers, Donnie Smith here, and welcome to my videoseries on auto estimating.
This series, we're gonna talk about how to write estimates on cars, you know, cars that have been in a wreck or has got a dent.
How do you write an estimate? (screeching) (boom) So to kick this video off, I'm gonna start it with a quote.
It says "organization is what you do before you do something,so that when you do it, it is not all mixed up.
" So in this first lesson we're just gonna talk about estimates, what are estimates, supplements, how they're generated,who needs estimators, and kinda setting up yourestimating environment.
As an estimator, it'simportant to fully understand what all the purposes an estimate serves.
And it's also important to properly set up your estimating environment to become efficient at generatingthorough auto estimates.
And this also includes the ASE A1 Position thevehicle for inspection.
So what are estimates? I mean estimates, they'recalled different things, like a damage report, damage estimate, auto estimate, but they arebasically the same thing.
A damage estimate however, is more than just a sheet of paperlisting the total cost of the repairs.
An estimate is a contractor a mutual agreement between two people.
As with real estate,the owner and the buyer, they must agree on a price,and they sign the document, the contract and it's a mutual agreement, and a auto estimate, youknow, it's the same way.
There needs to be an agreement between the repair shop and the customer and the customer shouldsign that agreement to authorize the repairs.
Now one thing that the estimator needs to explain to the customer, and this is somethingthat's really misunderstood, is the estimate, it is just an estimate.
It could change, it'snot the final invoice.
A lot of things could factor into this.
Maybe there was some hidden damage.
Well, of course, they wouldneed to contact the customer and let 'em know, but it isgonna change the estimate total.
Maybe there was a price increase on parts, maybe that changed.
There's a lot of things that may make the finalinvoice a different price than the estimate was,and you as an estimator need to explain this tothe customer up front so they understand.
Any additional charges, you're gonna need to write a supplement.
The customer needs to understand this, and a lot of times you're dealing with insurance companies as well, and of course, they arefamiliar with the process.
And not only do you need to have good communication skills with the customer, you're also gonna have to work with the insurance, in many cases.
Not every job is an insurance job, but a big percentage of 'em are, so you need to be able to communicate well with the insurance company.
Now every insurance company,that's gonna be different, the way they do it.
Do you pick up a phone, call 'em, are you a direct repair show for 'em, that is gonna vary a lot.
But whatever procedure you do use, your shop, the insurance company, whatever relationship you have, it's gonna be your responsibility to make sure that the insurance company and the customer, that you communicate with them and they allknow what is going on.
Now the insurance companymay be paying for everything, everything except the deductible in some of these jobs, but keep in mind, the owner of the car,that is your customer.
That's the one that's gonna bring it back to you if they have problems, have another accidentor anything like that, so keep in mind that you'reworking for the customer, the car owner.
It's your responsibilityas the repair shop, to repair that car back to its pre-accidental condition.
So once everybody agreesto the supplements, the additional charges,the insurance company and the customer, now you can include these additional chargesinto the final invoice.
So there's different methodsfor writing estimates.
For a long time, Iremember whenever I started writing estimates, it was all by hand, using Mitchell manuals is what we used.
I'm sure there was other books as well, estimating guides, but we'd have to look up the car, then we'd have to look up the part, and we'd manually write all that in, write the price in, the labor for it, andthat took a lot of time.
Nowadays, they have computer estimates.
It's a lot faster, youput all the information into the computer, and it'smore of a point and click.
But even though they haveall the computers today, I still think it's important, if you're interested in estimating, I still think it's very important to learn to write one by hand.
Now the reason I say this is, you wanna understand the process cause a lot of the computer systems, they will deduct for overlap, for example.
They'll just automatically put that in.
Well you don't have to worry about it because it puts it in, but if you never understandthe process and why, you don't wanna look dumb to the customer.
Maybe the customer says "Well, what's this deduct for overlap?" You don't wanna just tell 'em.
"Ah, don't worry about it, the computer puts that in there.
I don't know what it is.
" You can honestly sitthere and explain to 'em, because you know the procedure and why it deducted for overlap.
And I think the better understanding of the procedures you have, the better estimator you're gonna be, the less un-includeditems you're gonna miss, and I think it's gonna make you a much better estimator, to understand the full process.
Now there is a sequence to estimating.
Most guides, like the Mitchell, the guides they have.
We use use CCC now, thecomputer system, CCC 1.
There is a sequence thatmost of these follow.
Now I don't know every system out there, but all the ones thatI use have a sequence, and it starts with the front bumper cover and ends with the rear bumper cover, so it starts from front to back.
So when you're writing an estimate, of course, you wanna startwith the front panels and move backwards, so youcan have the same sequence, so when you go to the computer, or if you're using an estimating guide, you can just follow that sequence, make it much easier forya, not flipping' around.
So follow that sequencefrom front to rear.
Now there's also anothersequence that it follows, and that's from outside to inside.
So for example, the front bumper cover, of course the bumpercover's on the outside, that's gonna be first.
Well, what's underneath that bumper cover? Well there's a impact absorber.
There's a reinforcement bar.
And it just kinda goes from outside to in for each part group.
So who needs estimators? Well, basically every repair shop.
Every body shop, dealershipthat repairs cars, they're gonna need an estimator and they need someone thatcan write the estimates, they can go talk to the customers, they can look at the car, and be able to writethe estimates for them, and also insurance companies, they also need a, theymay call 'em appraisers or estimators, they need people that will go and look at these cars and write the damage report for 'em.
Now smaller shops, you know, body shops, it may be the owner, itmight be the manager, the foreman that writes these estimates, but a lot of your larger shops, they have people just for estimating and some shops have multiple estimators.
And again, the title for this, it varies.
There is tons of them, customer advisor, a lot of dealerships and body shops call 'em different things, but it's basically someone that visits with the customer, you'reusually the first contact, that sees the customer, and you go and look at the car, andyou basically communicate with them for the entire process, from the time you write the estimate to take the keys and givethe keys back to 'em.
So it is very, veryimportant for this position if you're considering this as a career, it's very important to havevery good communication skills.
Now let's talk about settingup the work environment.
As with any workenvironment, it's important to be set up properly.
If you wanna be able to write estimates, generate estimates,thoroughly and efficiently, you need to be set up properly.
Now I remember when I usedto write a lot of estimates, I just wrote 'em out in the parking lot, and I'm sure there's still a lot of shops that do that, but if you have a stall set up for estimating, it's really gonna simplify the process and it's really gonna minimize the amount of supplements that you have.
And I think whenever inspecting a car, good lighting is very important and even if you have good lighting, or you're out in the parking lot, you know sunlight, that's good lighting, but there always are gonna be areas in these cars, maybe you gotta look up under the dash, or maybe you need to crawl up under the carand look at something, you really need aflashlight, a good flashlight to look at these things.
Because if you can't see inthose dark areas too good, it's really gonna be hardto determine what's wrong, and probably this is gonnalead to a supplement, once you tear it down, and that's something you wanna eliminate The less supplements, the better, which we'll talk about that more later.
And many times, the estimator's gonna need to inspect underneath the car.
Now if you have a stall set up, and you have a lift and everything, that works really good.
But not all shop estimatingstalls have that, but you do need to have a, nearby, in your stall, you need to have to have a jackand some jack stands, that if you do need to lift it up, that you can crawl under there to look at some suspension parts or something that may be damaged.
And it's also important to be well organized in your work area.
Be organized, clean, andprovide a easy workflow, to move cars in and out.
It'd take up a lot of time if you have to shuffle cars around, you pull a car in, you're in the middle of estimating it, you have to back it outto let another car out.
If possible, you don'twanna be in that situation, so have your stall setup to where you can pull a car in there and leave it, and it does not disturb the rest of the workflow with the rest of the shop.
And also stay organized.
You need to have the tools that you need.
You don't wanna haveto go through the shop, borrowing tools fromdifferent body techs in there.
Have the tools that you need.
You're gonna just need some basic tools, if you might have to do alittle bit of tear-down, but have your own tools set up in there, have your jack stands, your jack, for the things thatyou're gonna need to do.
Cause it's not gonnalook very professional if you're trying to write an estimate and you're running through the shop or going to grab a technician to come and jack the car up and all that.
So just be sure that you havethe things that you need, and make sure in your estimating area that everything has aplace, and that's it's in place when you're not using it.
So what tools do youneed in your work area? Well this is really gonna vary, depending on your shopand the shop's procedures and how they do write their estimates, it's gonna vary, but I'm gonna give you some common tools that most of you will have to use.
The estimator's gonna haveto take photos of the damage, photos to help others seewhat the estimate sees.
They need to tell a story.
Photos are documents to prove the extent of the damage to the customers and to the insurance company.
You need to take photosof the overall damage, just a big picture of what happened, but you also need to take photos of the individual parts that are damaged.
Now I've used iPhones, cell phones, they work good, but youknow Larry Montanez, he's a consultant, and he says you really need a better camera, a high-quality camera,one that can zoom in, especially like on someof your individual parts where you need a really good picture, he thinks probably youneed a higher-end camera.
And especially a lot of the repair shops working directly withthe insurance company, just from the photos, soit probably is a good idea to have a high-qualitycamera to take these photos.
And I remember whenever Iwas an insurance adjuster, we used to use a 35-millimeter cameras, and we'd take these pictures, and we would have to go get 'em developed, and that was pretty expensive.
I mean today, it is so simple.
You just take a picture,plug it into the computer, and there it is, and you can send it to the insurance company, the customer, or whoever.
And another good thingabout having a camera.
Most cameras, most cell phones, sometimes you may need to take a video.
I mean a video may tell the story better than just a still picture.
So most cell phones andcameras have the capability to take a quick video clipof what you're talking about, maybe you can point at something or talk about what you'retrying to point out, and sometimes that mightbe the easiest thing to do.
And of course, like I mentioned earlier, you need good lighting, and part of that, you're gonna need a flashlight because some of those places, I don't care how good the lighting is, you're gonna need a flashlight to see some of those dark areas.
Now you're gonna need some hand tools.
You're probably not gonna need a full, roll-around box like alot of your techs have, but just some basic tools, screwdrivers, wrenches,sockets, trim tools, just some of those basic things.
Maybe you need to take a bumper cover off or a door panel, just enough tools to get that off, justsome basic hand tools.
And you're just gonnaneed a paint mil gauge, and this just basically measures the paint to let you know are yougonna have to strip, partial strip, or you can youjust final sand and paint, because that's gonna determinethe cost of the estimate.
And it's also a good ideato have a body filler gauge or magnet to determine the area that you're gonna be working on, has it got prior damage or body filler, that may eliminates some problems that you could run into.
And you're gonna needsome measuring equipment, a tape measure and tram gauge, for sure, and there might be caseswhere you really need to put it on the frame machine, and get a computerized reading of the extent of the damage.
And you're gonna need a scan tool.
A lot of times with yourelectrical components, you don't know until you scan it, so you'll need a scan tool so that you can read the codes.
And you're gonna need estimating guides or a computerized system, so that you can get the parts prices, the labor times and all that, probably just about everybody has moved to computerized systems.
I know CCC 1, Mitchell,and there's others too, but you're gonna need something like that or there might still bea few shops out there that do use the estimating guide, smaller shops that don'tdo a lot of volume, they may use the estimating guides, but you're gonna need something that you can look up the car, get the price of the parts, and the labor time for those parts.
And you're gonna need some office supplies to write customers' names down, and notes that you'regonna take during the day, there's gonna be a lot of them.
You need pencils and pens and notepads, things like that.
You're also gonna need a place for your computer, of course, and you're gonna need a phone.
You are gonna be on the phone a lot.
You're gonna be calling theinsurance companies, customers, updating them on theprogress of their car, so you need to have an area that you can concentrate in and have a phone availablewhen you need it.
And you're gonna need an area to consult with customers.
Now this may be the areawhere you write the estimates and all that or maybe a separate area.
It's just going to depend on your shop and how they're set upand how they do that, but you're gonna need an area to consult with the customers, talk to them, and explainthe process to 'em, and explain the estimate to 'em, and hopefully sell the job to 'em.
And I know there are someshops that even have an area for the insurance adjusters, they have their own areato generate estimates and to consult with customers.
As always, I appreciate youfor watching these videos.
I hope you enjoyed the lesson about auto estimating.
I hope that you learned some from that.
And if you did, if you liked the video, be sure and give me athumbs up, give me a like, subscribe to us if youhaven't subscribed to it.
Share this with your friends and if you have any questions or comments, just be sure and go down below this video in the comments section, and there you can leavea question or a comment.
And remember, if something's worth doing, do your best and have a blast doing it.
Thanks for watching.
Take care, and we'll see you in the next video.
Create a list and call each shop to see how well you are treated on the phone.
Select three or four shops that sound good and are in close proximity to your location, and you are ready to take your vehicle in for an estimate.
You should get at least three estimates from three different shops.
The estimate may vary because Auto Body Shops may use different estimating software, but they should all be in the same ballpark. If an estimate differs by a great deal, you should ask why.
The body shop expert should be able to explain all prices on the estimate, including all price quotes and labor charges.
When you get the estimate, you should also be evaluating the Auto Body customer service:
How quickly were you acknowledged?
How efficiently were you helped?
Were all members of the staff polite and friendly?
Did the staff seem knowledgeable?
Be observant during the estimate and you will have a good idea of how you will be treated during the entire repair process.
If the customer service seems lacking, move on to the next place even if the estimate seems reasonable.
If you decide to leave your car, and the shop contacts you later to tell you about additional charges, this may be a sign that it is not a reputable and honest repair facility.
Though additional charges can happen occasionally, it is not a common practice for a reputable shop.
If you do your homework, have some patience, and get a few estimate, the odds are good that you will find a reputable auto body shop.
Once you have found one, it helps to direct all your business to them, and refer them to others.
If you do this, you will have established a good relationship, and you will no longer need to worry about finding an honest auto body shop.
The Results Are In – Who Do You Think is the Best Summit NJ Auto Body in the Area?
(upbeat music) - Hey, this is Donnie Smith.
Have you ever overground metal, making it too weak and too thin? Well it's not that hard to do with these thinner metals.
What about when working with body filler? Have you ever gotten it in cracks, gaps, other placesthat you don't want it? Takes quite a bit of time to get that out of there and clean it up.
So if you'd like to learn some tricks, how to prevent over-thinning your metal when working with thin metal, and how to keep fromgetting all the body filler in the places you don'twant it in the first place, then you're in luck, because that's what we'regonna show you in this video.
Alright, let's just goahead and get started.
What we're gonna do to eliminate grinding a lot of the metal off,is to use a DA Sander, and we can use 36 grit, or 80.
I'm using 80 here.
That usually works well.
May take just a little bit longer to remove the paint coatings, but you're not gonna chancegrinding too much metal off.
This does not take the amountof metal that grinding does.
Now with thinner metals,I would recommend this.
Now if you're working on older vehicles, grinding may be a little quicker, and that may still work fine.
Okay, now for the tip of how to eliminate getting body filler in places you don't want it, and that's simply to mask it off.
On the edge, I don't want the body filler wrapping around the edgewhere I have to clean it up, so I'm gonna mask that off.
Any gaps, for instance here, there's a, where the molding goes, I don't want body filler to wrap in there where I'm gonna have to sand it out, so I'm gonna use the bodylines that's on the car, and use that as a dividing line to make nice, sharp lines at, so that the body fillerdoes not get in these areas.
(upbeat music) Okay, now I'm mixing thebody filler up in the tube.
I'm gonna let the air out of the cap, so that it'll mix well.
And once I remove some of the air, I'll put the cap back on, and now I'm just gonnamix it inside the tube, because this hardener reallydoes separate a lot in there.
If you don't do this, you'll have liquid-ysubstance that comes out, and you don't want that, so be sure that you mixit up well in the tube before you use it.
Now I've already got somebody filler out here, and I used a paint stick toput some on this mixing board.
And I'm gonna get this hardener, I'm gonna apply a stripfrom edge of the body filler to the other, and that usually is a pretty good mixing ratio.
And notice I'm using a spreader to mix it.
I'm not using a paint stick to stir it, because that could put air bubbles in it.
If you get air bubblesin your body filler, that's gonna create pinholes, whenever you go to sanding body filler.
So it's always best towork the air bubbles out.
Just spread it out on your filler until it's nice and uniform.
You don't want there tobe any hardener streaks.
You wanna mix it until it's one color.
(upbeat music) Okay, now I have the filler mixed good.
It's nice, uniform, one color.
We don't have any hardener streaks in it, so we know that it's mixed well.
I'm gonna apply the body filler.
Now to do this, I'm gonnaapply a tight coat first, and what that is, iswhere I take a thin coat of body filler, and push really hard down on the spreader, so thatI push it into the metal.
That helps it adhere better to the metal, so that you don't have any problems with adhesion at a later point.
Now once I get the tight coat on, I come back with a fill coat, and that's where I'm gonnaput a little bit less pressure on the spreader, which allows it to fill the damaged area in.
(upbeat music) Okay I have the fill coat applied.
Now here's a tip for you to eliminate a lot of the sanding, and that is to work on your edges, because if you have real hard edges, it's gonna take more sanding.
So what I'm doing here, is I'm using the spreader, and on the edges I'm kind of feathering that body filler out, so that edge is a real thin layer, and you don't have that big, hard edge to try to sand out.
Okay, now let this setup for just a little bit, and you don't want to do it immediately after you apply the body filler.
You wanna let the filler set, but you don't want it to be dry either.
But as it's kind of in its green state, go ahead and pull the tape off.
This will leave you nice clean edges.
And also before it fully cures, you can block sand lightly, you don't wanna sand too hard, just to help level someof the highs and lows.
Okay, now I allow it to dry, and started block sanding it.
Now I'm starting out with 36 grit, because that's gonna levelthe filler really fast, but notice that I'mstaying within the filler.
My block is not slidingout onto the paint, because I don't want those deep scratches getting onto the paint surface.
I'm just wanting to level the filler.
(upbeat music) Also notice that I'm sandingin different directions.
I'm not just going at oneangle the entire time.
So I change it up.
And what sanding indifferent directions does, is it's gonna help youget a more level surface.
So always sand in different directions.
(upbeat music) (sanding) (upbeat music) Once you have it level, switch to 80 grit.
That's what I'm doing here.
First, I'm gonna apply some guide coat, and this just to helpidentify highs and lows, and you'll know whenever you get rid of the 36 grit scratches.
Makes it easier to see this way.
Now also notice I am sandingout on the paint a little bit.
I'm not going too far, but you do wanna sand out further than you did with your 36 grit.
You wanna make sure all 36 grit scratches are removed during this step.
(upbeat music) Okay I finished blocking, and I'm feeling for high areas.
And usually if you seemetal spot areas like this, that's gonna indicate that it is high.
And that happens sometimes, and if it does, what you need to do is get your pick hammer, and lightly tap down on those metal areas.
And what this is gonna do, is it's gonna lower that metal.
(upbeat music) And here's another tip for you.
If you're having problemsfilling the bodywork, and determining highs and lows with your hand, with your bare hand, use something like this, a wipe all, or a towel or somethingto put between the panel and your hand.
And this may help you be able to feel the highs andthe lows much better.
Now I'm gonna use the tape, because I'm gonna be applying some putty, so I'm gonna do the same thingI did with the body filler, the edges, and that indention where the body side molding goes.
I'm gonna tape all that off, to keep all the filler out of that.
Now when using putty, it lays out a littlethinner than body filler, so I usually just go halfway, rather than from one edgeof the filler to the other.
So I'm gonna do about halfthe amount of hardener.
(upbeat music) But everything else is basically the same.
Mix it until it's one uniform color.
Don't want any streaks in there.
And the good thing aboutputty is it's thinner, and it's easier to get a nice skim coat, but you do wanna do the tight coat, followed by a fill coat.
And another thing about a putty, is you can go over the entire repair area, from paint edge to paint edge, and that helps any imperfections you had in your sanding flaws, or sanding scratches,or anything like that, it's gonna fill in.
(upbeat music) And after allowing it tosetup for a few minutes, now I'm gonna peel the tape.
(upbeat music) Now when sanding finish putty, I'm not gonna start out with 36 grit.
I'm gonna start out withthe 80 to level it out.
And also I wanna let it fully dry.
I really don't wanna try to sand putty in its green state, so I'llallow it to dry all the way.
Then I'm gonna get 80 on a block, and I'm gonna sand it.
And I'm gonna cross sand it.
Make sure it's good and level.
(upbeat music) Once I have it leveled with 80, I'm gonna use the guide coat, and then I'm gonna comeback with 150 to 180.
I'm using 150 here I believe, but anywhere between 180and 150 will work fine for smoothing out your 80 grit scratches.
And this guide coat, it will help you identify any lows that you may have if there are any, or let you know whenever you got all the 80 grit scratches sanded out.
(upbeat music) And one last thing you wanna do, before you send it offto start priming it, you wanna make sure it fits.
Make sure everything aligns.
Make sure that your body work is right.
So you're gonna have toput it up to the car, and make sure everything works.
(upbeat music) Always, thanks for watching this video.
Be sure and share it with your friends.
Give us a thumbs up, a like, and be sure to subscribe to our channel.
Also be sure to go to CollisionBlast.
And there we have hours of free autobody and painttraining videos like this one, and a lot of other resources for you.
Thanks again for watching.
Have a safe and productive week, and we'll see you in the next video.
How to Spot a Scam Auto Body Shop
- Hey this is Donnie Smith.
This lesson, we're gonnatalk about dent repair.
Now before we just jumpon this car and start repairing this dent, it'simportant for any repair job to wash it good withsoap and water to remove all the contaminants,the waxes and greases.
We've already done that,we used a power washer to clean the car and now we're using a wax and grease remover.
And this is just toassure that all the waxes and greases, silicones,things like Armor Alls that may have been sprayedaround the vehicle are removed, 'cause this will eliminatemany of the paint problems that arise during a repair process.
This will also save onsandpaper cause it won't be loading the sandpaperwith these contaminants.
Now we have the repair areaclean and we can begin repairs.
But before we do, we wanna take a look at the damage and seewhat's wrong with it, see where the indirectdamage is and direct damage, and determine what repairmethods we're gonna use to repair this damage.
Now when thinking aboutdamage, it's a good idea to think about water.
Because you know if somethinghits water it goes down, and when it goes down italso pushes a wave up.
So you've got the low areaand you've got the high area.
Think of damage the sameway, because any time there's a dent there's gonna be a low and there's gonna be a high.
So whenever you look at thisdamage, you can see that the center part of the dent isof course the direct damage, but then if you look up here on the top, you can see the crown, oreyebrow some people call it.
And you can see that that is pushed up.
That whole top of the fenderis actually pushed up.
So if you tried justto pull out on the low, or push down on the highthat's not gonna work.
You've got to roll themetal, you've gotta push down on that high while you'repushing out on the low.
Now, when you go todetermining what repair method you're gonna use, you mayhave some different types of tools, you may havesome high dollar tools, a stud welder gun, otherdent repair systems.
Where really what you wanna think of is what is the easiest method? If it's a hammer and dolly,you have access to both sides, then use a hammer and dolly.
Just because you've got thehighest piece of equipment does not mean you haveto use it every time.
Now on this particularrepair, if you drop the liner, you are able to get to the back side.
So if you can get to the back side, this would definitely be acandidate for hammer and dolly.
Feeling back there to see ifthere's room to get a dolly, which I determined that there is.
Another thing to remember isthat whenever you're repairing a dent to reverse what happened.
You wanna work from the outside in.
First in, last out.
So whatever happened first in an accident, that's the last thing you wanna repair.
Also remember whenworking with thin metal, it's thin, and you may be able to move some of this with yourhand some of the times.
Doesn't work every time, butI'm gonna reach back there and keeping that in mind that I'm gonna push down on that high,out on the low area, use my hands to rough this out.
Now this ain't gonna be perfect, it's just to rough out the damage, to get the majority of the damage out.
I can see that there arestill some highs and lows, I can feel 'em.
I know it's hard to see on the video, and even if you're doingthis yourself it may be hard to see this sometimes, butI've got a trick that'll help you locate the lows.
If you get a block withsome 80 grit on it, you can cross sand the damaged area, and what this'll do is that the highs will immediately go to metal, of course, 'cause they're high,but the lows, you'll see it doesn't sand it at all, andthis will identify the lows.
Now you can see the twolow areas very easy.
Now using the dolly, I'mgoing to reach behind this panel with the dollyand I'm gonna push out on those low areas.
Also, while I'm pushing outI'm gonna have to remember where those high areas areso I can tap in on those.
Remember, we always wannawork in multiple directions.
Whatever tool you're using, just remember to push out on the lowsand in on the highs.
Also, when using adolly, there's different dollies, different shapes.
You want the shape of thedolly to fit the contour of the part you're working on.
If this dolly was completelyflat it wouldn't work well with this repair.
Okay, now I am working on getting my dolly located on the back of themetal where I want it to go.
It may take a little bitof time to get it exactly where you want it, but I wantit right on those low areas, so that I can raise the low areas out.
Also while I'm raising lowareas out, while I'm pushing on them with the dolly, I wannatap down on the high areas.
This will allow the lowareas to come out while the high areas are tapped in.
This is called the Hammeroff Dolly technique, because I'm not actuallyhammering on the dolly.
The dolly is pushing out on the low, the hammer's pushing in on the highs.
There is also a Hammer on Dolly, and that's where youare hitting the dolly.
Any time you hammer on dollythat stretches the metal.
You wanna save that for your final stages, until you get the metalcloser to where you want it.
Then you can do some hammer on dolly for your final straightening.
So I'm gonna do a little bitmore metal straightening, and then I'm gonna use the block sander with some 80 grit on it tocontinue blocking that out to identify my highs and lows and see how the progress is coming.
Now whenever you're blocksanding with 80 grit to identify highs andlows, it's always important to cross sand.
By sanding in just onedirection, you're not gonna find all the highs and lows.
And this goes for if you're doing this to identify highs and lows,or block sanding body filler.
Cross sanding always levels much better.
Now we're using this sander,and this basically takes the place of what we usedto use with thicker metals, which is a body file.
However a body file will actually shave the top layer of the metalwhich would help level it.
We don't wanna do thatwith thinner metals.
We wanna use methods thatdoes not remove any metal.
So any method that you canuse that does not remove metal is always gonna be a better choice with these thinner metals.
Now I'm feeling out thedamage with my hand, just seeing what all highsand lows that I feel.
A little tip for feeling damage, because you'll have to do that often, is to use the flat of your hand.
Often I see fingertipsused, but that is not gonna catch the highs and lows,you're gonna miss 'em.
So always use the flatof your hand to be able to feel the damage.
Another trick that sometechnicians use is to use a rag, they claim that they can feel it better, it kinda eliminatesthe different textures.
You put a rag over yourhand and go over the damage and see if you can feelthe highs and lows better.
Try both ways, whichever works best is the method for you to use.
Now I feel a little bit ofhigh, so here I identified a high, so I'm just gonna tap that down with the pick side of the hammer.
I'm just basicallylowering that high area.
Now I'm going to re-blockit, re-sand it with this 80 grit to make sure thatit did remove the high area.
I feel of it, and I feelthat that feels good.
It's not perfect, butwith these thin metals, if you try to get 'em just perfect, try to metal finish 'emlike they did older metals, you're gonna weaken and thin the metal.
You wanna get it within 1/4 of an inch.
Anywhere between 1/8 and 1/4 is what most body fillersuppliers recommend.
However, you don't wannaexceed 1/4 of an inch, that's maximum after sanded.
You don't wanna exceed that amount.
This dent is well underthat, it's probably within 1/8 of an inch.
I'm noticing there's stilla little bit of a crease down here so I need to work that out.
I'm gonna get a hammer and dolly in there, I'm gonna raise in on the low area and I'm gonna tap this crease area in so that we can roll this metal back to where it's supposed to be.
As I'm pushing out with the dolly, I'm tapping in on that high area.
Now I'm being real careful herenot to hit the bumper cover.
It'd've been a better idea if I went ahead and dropped the bumper cover.
I'll probably be blending into that.
Another trick you can do is put a couple layers of masking tape.
I should've did that, Ishould've put masking tape or went ahead and dropped the bumper.
Because the last thingyou wanna do is sand into an adjacent panel,especially if it's not one that you're blending and cause damage that you have to repair.
I'm still having problemswith the low area right here, so I'm working on that.
Now the problem with this area, it's a little harder to get to'cause there's a brace there.
I'm following the same techniques, I'm gonna push out on that low area and I'm tapping around the high areas.
When I hammer on dollyyou can hear that ping, it makes a different sound.
You can hammer on dolly someto help remove that damage, but again remember thatthat stretches the metal and try to reduce theamount that you do that.
Little bit of a high, I knocked that down.
Okay, I'm gonna use my block with 80 grit to sand the damaged area some more to see if I got thedamage worked out enough to apply the body filler.
And I sand it and I feelof it, and there's still too much of a low there.
So I'm going to need to goback in there one more time and use the dolly and hammer.
I'm going to use the pickbecause there's a high here.
I'm pushing out on thatlow and I'm going to hammer on dolly a little bit,and sand it one more time to see if that has it.
And that's what it takes, itjust takes doing a little bit, feeling of it, checking your progress until you have thedamage where you want it.
We got the metal straightenedwithin 1/4 of an inch, really within 1/8, but 1/4 after sanded is the maximum amount of filler that most body filler manufacturers recommend.
No more than 1/4 of an inch.
That's the maximum amount.
I know 3M, Evercoat, they all have that on their technical data sheets.
So anything more than 1/4 of an inch you really need tostraighten it more than that.
You need to get it straighter.
Again, with these thinnermetals you don't wanna try to work it and work it,because you're gonna work-harden the metal.
It'll become work-hardened, thin, brittle, it may even crack on you.
It's almost impossible toget these thinner metals to do the metal finishingtechniques like they used to do where they'd work the metaland file it down and get it just perfect, prime it.
Now there is one exceptionto that, and that's PDR.
Paintless Dent Repair.
That's a total different set of techniques than we went over in this video.
This video is straightening metal like a body shop would perform.
Again, remember dependingon the extent of damage, like a fender, that wouldreally go into consideration, do we wanna repair that or replace it? Now on 1/4 panel, thosepanels usually cost more.
And also, it's a weld onpanel, so it's gonna take a lot of labor to replace it.
So you can have a lotmore damage in 1/4 panel than you would a fender,and still repair it.
Many times in body shops and dealerships, if there's even a couple ofhours of damage on fenders, they just go ahead and replace them, which is R and R, Remove and Replace.
Anyway, I hope you learnedsomething this lesson.
Thanks for watching, we'llsee you in the next lesson.