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Summit Auto Body – Where to Get the Best Tires and Brakes Service?

Peotter’s Tire and Auto understands that, without knowing what to look for, choosing a quality auto body shop is difficult.

It’s important to select the right auto shop to ensure the vehicle is fixed correctly the first time.

It’s also the best way to make sure the shop is honest and reliable. There are many important features of a good shop, including an experienced staff and certifications.

Autobody Repair

It can also help to read customer reviews before making a selection.

A Certified Summit Auto Body Shop

A good body shop is certified by the largest auto organization. Facilities that gain the approval of the organization have proven their abilities as certification is often a lengthy process.

To become approved, an auto shop must demonstrate it has the latest equipment, qualified technicians and a proper facility.

It must also show it offers above average training to its employees. Larger associations always collect feedback from prior customers as well before issuing an approval.

- Hey this is Donnie Smith.

This lesson, we're gonnatalk about dent repair.

Now before we just jumpon this car and start repairing this dent, it'simportant for any repair job to wash it good withsoap and water to remove all the contaminants,the waxes and greases.

We've already done that,we used a power washer to clean the car and now we're using a wax and grease remover.

And this is just toassure that all the waxes and greases, silicones,things like Armor Alls that may have been sprayedaround the vehicle are removed, 'cause this will eliminatemany of the paint problems that arise during a repair process.

This will also save onsandpaper cause it won't be loading the sandpaperwith these contaminants.

Now we have the repair areaclean and we can begin repairs.

But before we do, we wanna take a look at the damage and seewhat's wrong with it, see where the indirectdamage is and direct damage, and determine what repairmethods we're gonna use to repair this damage.

Now when thinking aboutdamage, it's a good idea to think about water.

Because you know if somethinghits water it goes down, and when it goes down italso pushes a wave up.

So you've got the low areaand you've got the high area.

Think of damage the sameway, because any time there's a dent there's gonna be a low and there's gonna be a high.

So whenever you look at thisdamage, you can see that the center part of the dent isof course the direct damage, but then if you look up here on the top, you can see the crown, oreyebrow some people call it.

And you can see that that is pushed up.

That whole top of the fenderis actually pushed up.

So if you tried justto pull out on the low, or push down on the highthat's not gonna work.

You've got to roll themetal, you've gotta push down on that high while you'repushing out on the low.

Now, when you go todetermining what repair method you're gonna use, you mayhave some different types of tools, you may havesome high dollar tools, a stud welder gun, otherdent repair systems.

Where really what you wanna think of is what is the easiest method? If it's a hammer and dolly,you have access to both sides, then use a hammer and dolly.

Just because you've got thehighest piece of equipment does not mean you haveto use it every time.

Now on this particularrepair, if you drop the liner, you are able to get to the back side.

So if you can get to the back side, this would definitely be acandidate for hammer and dolly.

Feeling back there to see ifthere's room to get a dolly, which I determined that there is.

Another thing to remember isthat whenever you're repairing a dent to reverse what happened.

You wanna work from the outside in.

First in, last out.

So whatever happened first in an accident, that's the last thing you wanna repair.

Also remember whenworking with thin metal, it's thin, and you may be able to move some of this with yourhand some of the times.

Doesn't work every time, butI'm gonna reach back there and keeping that in mind that I'm gonna push down on that high,out on the low area, use my hands to rough this out.

Now this ain't gonna be perfect, it's just to rough out the damage, to get the majority of the damage out.

I can see that there arestill some highs and lows, I can feel 'em.

I know it's hard to see on the video, and even if you're doingthis yourself it may be hard to see this sometimes, butI've got a trick that'll help you locate the lows.

If you get a block withsome 80 grit on it, you can cross sand the damaged area, and what this'll do is that the highs will immediately go to metal, of course, 'cause they're high,but the lows, you'll see it doesn't sand it at all, andthis will identify the lows.

Now you can see the twolow areas very easy.

Now using the dolly, I'mgoing to reach behind this panel with the dollyand I'm gonna push out on those low areas.

Also, while I'm pushing outI'm gonna have to remember where those high areas areso I can tap in on those.

Remember, we always wannawork in multiple directions.

Whatever tool you're using, just remember to push out on the lowsand in on the highs.

Also, when using adolly, there's different dollies, different shapes.

You want the shape of thedolly to fit the contour of the part you're working on.

If this dolly was completelyflat it wouldn't work well with this repair.

Okay, now I am working on getting my dolly located on the back of themetal where I want it to go.

It may take a little bitof time to get it exactly where you want it, but I wantit right on those low areas, so that I can raise the low areas out.

Also while I'm raising lowareas out, while I'm pushing on them with the dolly, I wannatap down on the high areas.

This will allow the lowareas to come out while the high areas are tapped in.

This is called the Hammeroff Dolly technique, because I'm not actuallyhammering on the dolly.

The dolly is pushing out on the low, the hammer's pushing in on the highs.

There is also a Hammer on Dolly, and that's where youare hitting the dolly.

Any time you hammer on dollythat stretches the metal.

You wanna save that for your final stages, until you get the metalcloser to where you want it.

Then you can do some hammer on dolly for your final straightening.

So I'm gonna do a little bitmore metal straightening, and then I'm gonna use the block sander with some 80 grit on it tocontinue blocking that out to identify my highs and lows and see how the progress is coming.

Now whenever you're blocksanding with 80 grit to identify highs andlows, it's always important to cross sand.

By sanding in just onedirection, you're not gonna find all the highs and lows.

And this goes for if you're doing this to identify highs and lows,or block sanding body filler.

Cross sanding always levels much better.

Now we're using this sander,and this basically takes the place of what we usedto use with thicker metals, which is a body file.

However a body file will actually shave the top layer of the metalwhich would help level it.

We don't wanna do thatwith thinner metals.

We wanna use methods thatdoes not remove any metal.

So any method that you canuse that does not remove metal is always gonna be a better choice with these thinner metals.

Now I'm feeling out thedamage with my hand, just seeing what all highsand lows that I feel.

A little tip for feeling damage, because you'll have to do that often, is to use the flat of your hand.

Often I see fingertipsused, but that is not gonna catch the highs and lows,you're gonna miss 'em.

So always use the flatof your hand to be able to feel the damage.

Another trick that sometechnicians use is to use a rag, they claim that they can feel it better, it kinda eliminatesthe different textures.

You put a rag over yourhand and go over the damage and see if you can feelthe highs and lows better.

Try both ways, whichever works best is the method for you to use.

Now I feel a little bit ofhigh, so here I identified a high, so I'm just gonna tap that down with the pick side of the hammer.

I'm just basicallylowering that high area.

Now I'm going to re-blockit, re-sand it with this 80 grit to make sure thatit did remove the high area.

I feel of it, and I feelthat that feels good.

It's not perfect, butwith these thin metals, if you try to get 'em just perfect, try to metal finish 'emlike they did older metals, you're gonna weaken and thin the metal.

You wanna get it within 1/4 of an inch.

Anywhere between 1/8 and 1/4 is what most body fillersuppliers recommend.

However, you don't wannaexceed 1/4 of an inch, that's maximum after sanded.

You don't wanna exceed that amount.

This dent is well underthat, it's probably within 1/8 of an inch.

I'm noticing there's stilla little bit of a crease down here so I need to work that out.

I'm gonna get a hammer and dolly in there, I'm gonna raise in on the low area and I'm gonna tap this crease area in so that we can roll this metal back to where it's supposed to be.

As I'm pushing out with the dolly, I'm tapping in on that high area.

Now I'm being real careful herenot to hit the bumper cover.

It'd've been a better idea if I went ahead and dropped the bumper cover.

I'll probably be blending into that.

Another trick you can do is put a couple layers of masking tape.

I should've did that, Ishould've put masking tape or went ahead and dropped the bumper.

Because the last thingyou wanna do is sand into an adjacent panel,especially if it's not one that you're blending and cause damage that you have to repair.

I'm still having problemswith the low area right here, so I'm working on that.

Now the problem with this area, it's a little harder to get to'cause there's a brace there.

I'm following the same techniques, I'm gonna push out on that low area and I'm tapping around the high areas.

When I hammer on dollyyou can hear that ping, it makes a different sound.

You can hammer on dolly someto help remove that damage, but again remember thatthat stretches the metal and try to reduce theamount that you do that.

Little bit of a high, I knocked that down.

Okay, I'm gonna use my block with 80 grit to sand the damaged area some more to see if I got thedamage worked out enough to apply the body filler.

And I sand it and I feelof it, and there's still too much of a low there.

So I'm going to need to goback in there one more time and use the dolly and hammer.

I'm going to use the pickbecause there's a high here.

I'm pushing out on thatlow and I'm going to hammer on dolly a little bit,and sand it one more time to see if that has it.

And that's what it takes, itjust takes doing a little bit, feeling of it, checking your progress until you have thedamage where you want it.

We got the metal straightenedwithin 1/4 of an inch, really within 1/8, but 1/4 after sanded is the maximum amount of filler that most body filler manufacturers recommend.

No more than 1/4 of an inch.

That's the maximum amount.

I know 3M, Evercoat, they all have that on their technical data sheets.

So anything more than 1/4 of an inch you really need tostraighten it more than that.

You need to get it straighter.

Again, with these thinnermetals you don't wanna try to work it and work it,because you're gonna work-harden the metal.

It'll become work-hardened, thin, brittle, it may even crack on you.

It's almost impossible toget these thinner metals to do the metal finishingtechniques like they used to do where they'd work the metaland file it down and get it just perfect, prime it.

Now there is one exceptionto that, and that's PDR.

Paintless Dent Repair.

That's a total different set of techniques than we went over in this video.

This video is straightening metal like a body shop would perform.

Again, remember dependingon the extent of damage, like a fender, that wouldreally go into consideration, do we wanna repair that or replace it? Now on 1/4 panel, thosepanels usually cost more.

And also, it's a weld onpanel, so it's gonna take a lot of labor to replace it.

So you can have a lotmore damage in 1/4 panel than you would a fender,and still repair it.

Many times in body shops and dealerships, if there's even a couple ofhours of damage on fenders, they just go ahead and replace them, which is R and R, Remove and Replace.

Anyway, I hope you learnedsomething this lesson.

Thanks for watching, we'llsee you in the next lesson.

Auto shops can also receive certification from parts manufacturers and organizations like Auto Body Alliance, which requires the shop to meet certain qualifications.

Qualified and Experienced Staff in the Repair Shop

A good auto body shop has qualified staff with a number of certifications. Certification from ASE (Automotive Service Excellence) is especially important.

ASE is a non-profit organization that offers certifications to automobile technicians that show proficiency in their trade.

Technicians may also have certification from car manufacturers like GM, Chrysler, Toyota and Nissan, showing their knowledge and experience dealing with particular car brands.

Some auto technicians also receive aftermarket training from Bendix, Moog, or NAPA. Most training requires a great deal of knowledge and experience and demonstrates a technician is a professional in their field.

Positive Customer Auto Body Shop Reviews

When possible, former clients should be consulted about their experience with the shop. Some resources to find reviews are online, making it easy to decide if a body shop has good feedback from the public.

Reviews should mention that the vehicle was fixed properly the first time and work was completed in a timely fashion.

Positive reviews should also discuss whether a warranty was offered by the body shop and if the facility was clean and orderly.

A facility that has the approval of a large automobile association has shown a history of positive feedback from customers, although it’s always a good idea to check into a shop as much as possible.

Accepts All Insurance

Another important aspect of a good body shop is its acceptance of all forms on insurance.

Peotter’s Tire and Auto believes that an auto body shop that accepts all insurance providers demonstrates it has experience working with insurance companies to settle claims quickly.

Auto Repair Store

In Summary:

A shop that is hesitant to accept major insurance providers is a red flag that something may be wrong.

This is also a matter of convenience and makes it easier for the vehicle owner to select a shop they feel comfortable with.

Selecting the right auto body shop requires a bit of patience and consideration.

For example, choosing the first shop available can be a disaster if the employees aren’t trained properly.

A good auto shop is clean and up-to-date with a friendly and knowledgeable staff. The shop should have positive reviews and a range of certifications for both the facility and technicians.

It should also accept all forms of insurance, making repairs easy and convenient.

Auto Repair Store

What makes auto body shops so difficult to heat during the cold season? To shop owners, the answer is obvious. Auto body shops are characteristically dusty, breezy, high heat-loss environments. To make the indoor air more breathable and safe for workers, fresh air must be introduced through use of exhaust fans and/or raising overhead doors to help dissipate and eliminate contaminants. The problem is, as contaminants are pulled out, so is the heated air. Seemingly a "no win" scenario right?

So what's the most effective and efficient way to heat body shops?

Answer: Infrared radiant tube heaters.

Why Infrared?

To help answer that question, let's review what "infrared" is and how it works.

Infrared (IR) is electromagnetic wave energy that travels at the speed of light until it strikes an object. Upon striking an object, the IR energy converts to heat and is either reflected or absorbed. Dark and opaque objects (i.e. asphalt, concrete, etc.) readily absorb radiant IR heat energy, whereas highly reflective objects such as chrome and polished aluminum are poor absorbers and tend to reflect that energy away.

The most familiar IR emitter (heater) is our own sun. The sun radiates its IR energy through our atmosphere to the earth's surface, uninhibited by wind. As the earth's surface absorbs that energy, our air becomes warm.

During our North American winters the sun's rays are less dense due to the angle of the sun in the sky and our air temperatures are much cooler. But by summer solstice the sun's rays are at their peak angle and absorption is at its highest, resulting in warmer air temperatures.

Why use infrared tube heaters for your body shop?

1) Ceiling suspended infrared tube heaters mimic the warmth of the sun by warming up tools, machinery, floors and people directly, thereby warming the air indirectly.

2) Unlike forced air heaters, infrared tube heaters do not blow air throughout the space. That's a big plus in body shops where dust in painting areas is a problem.

3) Quicker heat recovery. As infrared energy absorbs into floors, tools, vehicles, etc., heat is recovered much more quickly when overhead doors are opened and closed again or when exhaust fans are cycled on and off periodically. That's because surfaces in the direct path of the infrared rays become a "heat sink". In other words, stored heat in objects re-radiates to warm the surrounding air.

4) Energy efficiency - an infrared tube heating system can save as much as 50% or more in fuel savings compared to conventional forced air. This is especially true in body shops where air exchanges are very high.

5) Infrared heaters can increase production. A carefully designed infrared tube heating system can be used to decrease drying times and enhance paint job quality. Placing vehicles in the path of infrared radiation warms cold metal surfaces. Paint applied to warm metal surfaces is less likely to run or drip than when applied to cold surfaces. And because infrared heaters don't move air around, there is less opportunity for dust particles to mix with newly applied paint.

We should note that gas infrared tube heaters are NOT to be used inside paint booths or paint mixing rooms. Tube heater emitters can reach 900 to 1100 Degrees F, well above the flash point of solvent-based primers and sprays. Spraying should be contained in a designated paint room with a filter bank and exhaust system to carry away potentially explosive fumes. Once spraying is done and the booth is ventilated with fresh air, vehicles and components can then be moved out of the spray booth to an isolated drying area where the infrared heaters are located.

Are some infrared tube heaters better than others for heating body shops?

Yes indeed.

That's where you need to do a bit of homework. A thorough review of the various infrared tube heater manufacturers can turn up some surprising differences between brands and product offerings. In your search, ask about burner design (are controls isolated from the air stream? They should be.), emitter tubing (heat-treated aluminized or cheaper hot-rolled steel?), reflector efficiency (50% efficient or 100%), and warranty (10 years is better than 5 years).

How to Spot a Scam Auto Body Shop